Sleeping bags

Start by defining your actual itinerary: day hike, weekend, 4 to 7 day trek or long trek with bivouac.

When backpacking , aim for 20–30 L for daypacking, 35–50 L for 2–3 days, and 55–70 L beyond, keeping the load at 20–25% of your body weight and a back set from C7 to the iliac crests.

For tents , choose the number of places taking into account the equipment: a 2-person tent with two apses is often more comfortable than a loaded 1-person tent, and the difference is based on the floor space, the interior height and the apse space more than on the number of “places”.

On shoes , leave ~1 cm in front of the longest toe, validate the width, test at the end of the day and choose the drop: 4–8 mm for precision and dynamism, 8–12 mm for prolonged comfort.

For poles , a length close to waist × 0.68 puts your forearm at 90°, the folded value should fit in your bag, and the locking system should be reliable with legible markings.

This simple framework saves you 80% of purchasing errors.

A 2-person tent is considered ultralight under 1.5 kg, versatile and robust between 1.5 and 2.2 kg; above this, you gain in wind resistance and volume at the expense of carrying.

A 50–60 L bag is comfortable under 1.8 kg if it retains a real frame; heavier, it supports high loads better.

Poles weighing less than 400g per pair are very light but do not tolerate sudden twists well; 7001/7075 aluminum bends before breaking, whereas carbon breaks cleanly but filters vibrations better.

In fabric , a 20–30D ripstop nylon optimizes the weight/resistance ratio, a 40D and above withstands abrasion, polyester holds up better to UV rays; silicone coatings (silnylon/silpoly) bead for a long time while PU accepts bonding better but ages more quickly.

As for shoes , EVA is light and flexible, PU lasts and wears better, the anti-stone plate protects on rough terrain; a “wet grip” rubber provides security on rock, a harder compound lasts for miles.

Choose based on your frequency of use, terrain, and risk tolerance: ultra-light for elevation and speed, denser materials for long season and heavy packs.

Place the hipbelt right on your hips, tighten it before the shoulder straps, then adjust the load adjusters to maintain a 30-45° angle; tighten the chest strap to stabilize without compressing. Pack heavy items close to your back and in the middle of your torso, keep water and layers within reach; a well-balanced pack saves your quads and spares your shoulders. Orient a tent into the prevailing wind, tighten the guy lines in the last third, and multiply the anchors if the ground is soft; in gusts, a geodesic shape holds better than a basic dome. Lace your boots with a “heel lock” when it’s downhill or pouring to prevent the back of your foot from slipping and bruised toenails. Use pole straps with a palm push, adjust strand by strand to remove any slack, and adjust the length when climbing/descent to keep your elbows close to 90°. These simple gestures, repeated, are worth more than any gadget.

Look for a tent flysheet with a minimum Schmerber of 1,500–3,000 mm and a groundsheet with a minimum of 3,000–10,000 mm, add a footprint if the ground is abrasive and maintain high and low air inlets to break up condensation; a single wall requires more ventilation and careful positioning. In a bag , choose an internal waterproof liner rather than a cover alone, which offers poor protection in crosswinds; protect zips and seams with flaps. On shoes , a membrane keeps water out in continuous rain but dries more slowly; in hot weather or alternating showers, a non-membrane upper, re-waterproofed regularly, often remains more breathable. Remember that the DWR wears off: when the water no longer sticks, clean and refresh the treatment.

Finally, real regulation is achieved through layers: breathable first layer, suitable insulation and ventilating shell, to avoid transforming the rain outside into sweat inside.

For shoes , crampons of 5 mm and more bite into mud and loose earth when 3–4 mm are enough on dry trails; a soft rubber sticks to wet rock but wears quickly on tarmac, a hard rubber reverses the compromise. A sole with a “heel brake” and an anti-stone plate reassures on scree, while a more rigid upper stabilizes heavy portage or prolonged slopes. As for tents , a geodesic multiplies the poles and absorbs the wind, a tunnel optimizes weight and habitability if the orientation is careful, a self-supporting dome makes life easier on slabs and restricted areas; choose your stakes according to the ground, from the aluminum Y for versatility to the long stake for sand/snow. For poles , wide washers prevent sinking into snow and peat, thin washers slide better between stones; carbide tips trace cleanly on scree. Finally, in a bag , a rigid belt and a marked chassis are suitable for high mountain loads while a flexible harness remains unbeatable for fast hiking.

Always dry a tent completely before storage, keep it away from prolonged UV rays, inspect the taut seams and revive the water repellent when the water no longer beads; a simple and early repair (patch, stitching, guy lines) avoids costly breakage. Clean a bag with warm water and mild soap, never in the washing machine, dry it flat and regularly check buckles, straps and frame rails; keep a minimal field kit (needle, strong thread, self-adhesive patches, spare strap). Brush your shoes after outings, let them air dry away from a heat source, condition the leather, replace the insoles and have them resoled if the model allows it; a new sole often gives you a full season. Rinse your poles after mud or salt, open and dry the tightenings, replace tips and washers as soon as they become visible. When purchasing, choose products that offer spare parts, replaceable YKK zippers, available hoops and repairable after-sales service: this saves you money in the long term.